Gardening tips – January 2013

Happy New Year, everyone.  Although we can expect January to bring us more cold weather, it is also the time to look forward to Spring and even if it does not seem like it, the days are getting longer.

This is the time of year when houseplants are most appreciated.  Azaleas, cineraria and cyclamen will all help to cheer things up.  Do not over water, and most of these plants like cool conditions.  I am enjoying the amaryllis (I know they should be called hippeastrum, but it never seems to be the same) that I bought at Lidl in ceramic pots for £4 each.  The key is to have them kept in average warmth 15C and over with bright light and some sun.  Water when growth begins.  Allow the surface to dry out between soakings and use tepid water.

When your seeds arrive from the supplier keep them in a cool dry place until required.  Protect pea seeds in particular because mice love them, and they have already got into our garden shed where they have started on anything that they can reach.  Remember paper is no barrier to sharp teeth, and makes lovely nesting material.

Rhubarb can be forced using an upturned bucket or tub.  This should be covered with garden fleece to keep off any frost.  Hopefully, you remembered to give it a good mulch earlier, because it is a hungry feeder and will reward you for it.

In mid-January you need to start looking for new seed potatoes, otherwise the variety that you want will almost certainly be sold out.  When they arrive, keep them in a frost-free place and stand the tubers, eye-end uppermost, in shallow boxes.  If you can get large egg trays (called ‘Keyes’ trays, and are designed to hold 30 eggs) these are ideal for keeping the tubers upright and just separated to prevent any infection spreading.

You may want to think of biological pest control.  There have been huge developments and you can get natural solutions to pests such as vine weevil and whitefly.  In fact there are over 10 different pests and diseases that can be controlled in this way.

To get the best onions for the Capel Summer Show (Saturday August 17th 2013, this year make a note!) apart from starting the first sowings this month, you should give a good dressing of wood ash on the site of the bed that you will use, since they really like potash.

January is the time to prune gooseberries and the red and/or white currants.  If you have a grapevine these should be pruned before the middle of the month.  In late winter it is a good idea to give your apple trees a feed.  Either provide a potassium-rich general fertiliser, or, for dessert apples grown in soil apply 140g per square metre (4 oz. per square yard, in old money) Growmore general fertiliser.  For an organic feeding regime, substitute blood, fish and bone for the general fertiliser.

On cold, frosty days when it is difficult to get out, go ‘shedding’ and look after your garden tools.  The blades of your secateurs should be cleaned by removing any sap deposits using fine steel wool.  Finish off by giving them a spray with WD-40 or some other light mineral oil.

Garden notes for December 2012.

The talk that Geoff Hawkins gave the 30 or so members who attended the AGM on 13th November was practical and very informative.  Amongst a great deal of sound advice, including using Vitax Q4 fertiliser rather than my favourite Growmore, he advocated to use of bending shoots of fruit trees and climbing roses.  I had never thought of using string and a brick to gently bend shoots so that the fruiting/flowering buds would have a better chance of doing their stuff rather than sending all the growth into the tip.  Many people said that we should get Geoff back again to have more time, we only allowed him exactly 60 minutes, and hopefully the new committee will set that in motion for next year.

The garden becomes much quieter in December, giving you a chance to tackle some of those jobs that get overlooked in busier times.  So, trees and shrubs that obstruct pathways can be pruned back into shape, and make it easier to get access.  Ditches, gulleys and drains should be cleaned out and kept clear thus preventing a build up of surface water during periods of heavy rainfall.

When cutting evergreens for Christmas decoration use a sharp pair of secateurs and regard it as a pruning exercise as much as getting it for the house.  Cut the pieces here and there where they will not be missed, or go the whole hog and cut the plant to shape for the spring.  Thinking of pruning, spare a few minutes to clean up your pruning shears and other tools.  Finish off by giving the blades a light oiling with something like WD-40 or Three in One oil.

If you are lucky enough to have a greenhouse vine, they should be pruned towards the end of the month.  All side-growths should be cut back to two buds.  The spurs carrying these shortened growths should be well spaced apart, at least 40 to 50 cm apart on the main rod so that overcrowding in summer is minimised.

Look out for new varieties and novelties that might be interesting.  Robinsons continue to sell Exhibition seed for the main vegetable varieties, and those are the ones you need to think of for the best entries into the Summer Show. .  They are on sale in Hilliers and also at the RHS Garden Centre, Wisley.

In order to have some early shoots of mint, now is the time to lift a few roots and put them in a fairly deep seed box and cover with potting soil.  Put it in a frame or the greenhouse, and you will have nice shoots in a few weeks, when everything else is still asleep in the garden.

In the last week of the month give some time to plan for the year ahead.

May you all have a peaceful and very happy Christmas.

Gardening Tips. November 2012

This is the month where there should be good housekeeping in the garden, tidying up and pruning in readiness for the winter months. If you have a large compost area it is a very good idea to keep all the leaves swept from the lawn and elsewhere, as they will make excellent leaf mould – eventually.

Prepare for the spring by digging and manuring the vegetable patch. Remember to keep a 3 year rotation so that potatoes (for example) are not planted in the same area two years running.

Where possible, clear debris from your ponds. Surrounding perennials should be cut down and the soil forked over. Giant leave of the Gunnera manicata should be folded over the crown of the plant to provide protection from the cold. Remove any submersible pumps that may have been used earlier in the year and have them serviced and stored for use next year.

Remember to get your tulips planted before the end of the month. Try layer planting of tulips in containers. Do this by planting the later flowering varieties first, cover them with about an inch to 2″ of compost and then plant earlier varieties. A typical 12″ diameter container can take up to 40 bulbs in order to get a good display that lasts several weeks if this technique is used. On the subject of container planting for the winter, it is difficult to find suitable plants. Winter pansies are usually reliable. One tip I have learnt, and I expect it has been done to death with all the TV gardening programmes, is the use of variegated and evergreen plants like ivy (hedera) and also some of the herbs such as purple sage, and the evergreen thyme. When these are mixed with spot colour of winter flowering dwarf wallflowers, or pansies it can make for an interesting colour spot in the depths of winter.

Seed catalogues abound and it is worthwhile to spend some time thinking about what you might grow next year. Thompson & Morgan and Dobies are probably the most promoted catalogues. For vegetable seed and fruit plants, I have found D.T. Brown (www.dtbrownseeds.co.uk) very good. They are expanding the range of plants and products sold. Recently I bought a pair of ‘Vine Snips’ from them and find them very useful in the garden. Whilst most people have pruning shears, the blades are relatively thick and cumbersome. The Vine Snips are similar to a pair of fine surgical scissors that are ideal for more delicate work, like deadheading and taking out small offshoots. They cost around a fiver and might be a suitable Christmas present for gardeners everywhere.

For those who can lay out £100 for a pair of garden boots, the Toggi range are very good. Ideally the best are the Dubarry boots but they cost between £200 to £300 a pair. The Toggi alternative has a leather foot cover, and a mix of cloth and leather up to the knee. They are waterproof, warm in winter, and very comfortable. Until I bought a pair earlier this year I had always gone for the cheapest rubber wellie possible, but now it seems that the average wellie costs anything between £40 to £60 and they do not seem to last much more than a couple of years, so I think that paying more as an investment in a good pair of boots is justified.

Temple Lane Allotments

The allotments, recently started through the generosity of the Dale family, were recently put up for a weekly charitable giving project at Dorking’s Waitrose Store. As a result of the votes from customers, £320 was raised towards costs. The present plan is to build an Eco Loo on the site. Congratulations!